Linear waves in shallow water over an uneven bottom, slowing down near the shore

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Аннотация

The exact solutions of the system of equations of the linear theory of shallow water are discussed, representing traveling waves with specific properties for the time propagation, which is infinite when approaching the shore and finite when leaving for deep water. These solutions are obtained by reducing one-dimensional shallow water equations to the Euler–Poisson–Darboux equation with a negative integer coefficient before the lower derivative. The analysis of the wave field dynamics is carried out. It is shown that the shape of a wave approaching the shore will be differentiated a certain number of times, which is illustrated by a number of examples. When a wave moves away from the shore, its profile is integrated. The solutions obtained in the framework of linear theory are valid only for a finite interval of depth variation.

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Авторлар туралы

I. Melnikov

Национальный исследовательский университет “Высшая школа экономики”; Институт прикладной физики им. А. В. Гапонова-Грехова РАН

Email: melnicovioann@gmail.com
Ресей, Нижний Новгород; Нижний Новгород

E. Pelinovsky

Национальный исследовательский университет “Высшая школа экономики”; Институт прикладной физики им. А. В. Гапонова-Грехова РАН

Хат алмасуға жауапты Автор.
Email: pelinovsky@appl.sci-nnov.ru
Ресей, Нижний Новгород; Нижний Новгород

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